DIAMOND ORDERS – From Fashion Jewellery to Insignia for Exceptional Service
The countries of the Baltic Sea enjoy the midnight sun in summer, yet must contend with its near absence in winter. This season, we hope to bring a measure of light into the darker months with the opening of our new exhibition, Diamond Orders – from Fashion Jewellery to Insignia for Exceptional Service.
Badges of Orders of Chivalry were originally adorned with precious stones and pearls, reflecting both status and the artistic tastes of their time. Among the most famous early examples are the badges of the Order of the Garter (Great Britain, 1348) and the Order of the Golden Fleece (Burgundy, 1430), renowned for their lavish decoration with diamonds.
Their splendour mirrored contemporary fashion. During the Renaissance of the 16th century—and well into the following century—these jewelled badges became integral elements of court dress. By the 18th century, as the number of Orders created to reward service to the state increased, diamond-studded badges were often presented as personal gifts from the sovereign. Recipients could also commission their own richly decorated versions, particularly in the case of the Order of the Golden Fleece, which was divided in 1701 into Spanish and Austrian branches, both of which continue to exist today.
In the early 19th century, diamonds acquired a new significance within the system of honours. Rather than serving primarily as decorative elements, they became marks of special distinction. Decorations “with diamonds” were conferred for exceptional achievements, distinguished service, or unusually long tenure. In several countries—including Austria, Germany, and Russia—this form of distinction came to represent an intermediate class between ordinary grades of an Order. Though rare today, the tradition of awarding Orders “with diamonds” still continues in some regions.
Our exhibition explores this long and multifaceted history, tracing the evolution of jewelled insignia from courtly fashion items to symbols of exceptional merit. Open now and running until the end of March
